this blog entry by: eliza
Gap year, and I was off to visit Southern Africa and volunteer for over two months with the Back To School Foundation. I resigned myself to the fact that, as a vegan, I would only be able to eat the plainest of foods while traveling and would probably lose several kilos. I watched a documentary about Malawi, the country where I would be spending most of my time, and was definitely not expecting any exciting culinary experiences. It showed school children eating a grey substance resembling liquid concrete but was apparently some kind of maize porridge...
Happily, vegan eating in Africa turned out to be a pleasant surprise. In fact, it was so easy that my normally omnivorous travelling partner lasted the whole time (around 4 months) without eating animal products! Even the maize-based meals I’d been dreading turned out to be enjoyable. The Malawian staple food is ‘nsima’ (aka nshima or mealie pap), a maize flour boiled until it becomes a white semi-solid (very similar to polenta) and it was quite good. All the Malawian restaurants we visited didn't seem to have set menus and getting a vegan meal was simply a matter of asking what they could do. The most readily available vegan dish, available for the equivalent $1- $3AUD, was nsima and vegetables (usually ‘mustard’ or the unfortunately named ‘rape’ which are both somewhat like spinach) with tomato and onion. This dish was normally served with sauce, that for some reason, was known as ‘soup’. It was eaten by breaking off some nsima with one hand, rolling it, then using it to pick up the vegetables and sauce. Many restaurants also had the option of rice with vegies or hot chips with vegies and some even had beans available. Bigger towns in Malawi had more expensive restaurants (though still incredibly cheap compared to Australian prices) with Western-type food, but we didn't check these out.
It required some effort to explain to restaurant staff and street vendors that you do not want animal products. As we knew virtually no Chichewa, we relied entirely upon their grasp of English, which, luckily for us, was usually good. One problem we encountered when we asked ‘Does this have milk or egg in it?’ our server would immediately assume we wanted this to be the case and nod enthusiastically. When we then declined the food, saying we did not eat animal products, they would then say it didn't have animal ingredients. To ensure they were lying in the first incidence and not the second, I would sometimes resort to saying I would get very sick if I accidentally ate milk or egg. But generally, people were only too happy to answer questions and some restaurant staff specially cooked vegetables for us.
Meal with students at Back to School Foundation Self-catered meal in Hostel
If we had relied on restaurant food all the time, we may have become bored with the limited options, but we mainly self-catered in the accommodation provided by the Back to School Foundation. The market in Monkey Bay (the town where we spent our volunteer time) had various kinds of fresh fruit and vegetables as well as peanuts, dried beans, spices, soy pieces and many other healthy vegan options. The local supermarkets also had a surprisingly large variety of vegan foods, including many delicious dairy and egg-free biscuits and even some vegan chocolate. Soy milk was available but very expensive (600 kwacha per litre, around $6 AUD) as it was imported from South Africa. One thing we had to be careful of was processed fruit juice which often had milk products added to it. Overall, being vegan in Malawi is easy because, with the exception of fish from the Lake, animal products are too expensive for the average family to have regularly. But, the fact that we could afford the ‘luxury’ of meat and yet didn’t eat it sparked some curiosity and generally my explanation, that I could live healthily without causing suffering to animals and therefore felt I should, was met with a look that clearly said “Okaayy, she’s nuts!”
Soy section in supermarket, Zambia Soy piece bag
Cruelty to animals was not as widespread as I had expected, but we did see goats strapped to bikes or motorbikes and being lifted by their legs with no regard for their feelings. We also found two horribly neglected dogs, but compassion and respect for animals were visible, as shown by the readiness of a local animal charity to rescue these dogs.
After we left Malawi, we went to Zambia, which had very similar foods to Malawi. One surprising street food was ‘African polony’, a mock meat made from peanuts and maize meal. We were also recommended a delicious Zambian and Zimbabwean dish made with spinach or ’rape’ boiled until soft then fried with peanut butter.
After a six day truck tour from Livingstone in Zambia, through Botswana, to Johannesburg, with Acacia Africa (which did a good job of vegan catering), we were able to enjoy some of the more luxurious vegan options available in South Africa. South Africa was much like Australia in that most restaurants had at least one vegan option and prices were reasonable. Backpackers’ hostels often had vegan options on their menus as well as self-catering kitchens. In Simon’s Town (near Cape Town) we even found a totally vegan cafe where we had yummy banana pancakes for breakfast!
So if you’re heading to Southern Africa any time soon you can be sure that your appreciation of the breathtaking scenery, beautiful wildlife and amazing cultures will not be dulled by a lack of vegan food!

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